Anyone with a VVC and an emerald?

[gotenks1321]

Has anyone got the config file and base map that should come with the ECU at all that I could borrow please? Mine was originally for something else so has the wrong base map on it

Cheers

[Matt Parker]

I should have the maps somewhere on a pc, the main ecu config setup is preety straight forward to do for the VVC as you just have to change the output settings to VVC.
If you go to 'ECU Configuration' in the top menu bad, go to 'outputs' and then set the VVC increase and decrease(VVT/VVC+ and VVC-) to which ever 'auxout' pins you have then to in the ECU plug.

[gotenks1321]

Thanks Matt Is that the only change needed? I don't have that option in the software at the moment but I assume that's because I haven't plugged the ECU in and connected?

[Matt Parker]

ah, what model Emerald do you have, is it an M3DK or K3?

If is an M3DK then the VVC wont work with it as it unless its a later model where you can have a software update to have the features of the K3 with the additional outputs to operate the VVC.

[gotenks1321]

Sorry for the delay but yep, it's the K3 and I've figured out what I was doing wrong I was using the latest version of the software from the Emerald website which happens to be for the M3DK, not the M3

Can't get it to idle with the maps I've got hold of now so in the middle of making up a loom to plug into the existing one, I'll drive up to Emerald with the standard then plug in the loom extension and the Emerald and get them to map it

[Matt Parker]

Thats what I did originally, only way I could get my old solid cam VVC to run was use standard ECU to get it started and once it was warm enough to swap to the emerald hald way on the way there to save fuel lol

Have you set up the idle control valve to the correct sensor?
also if you are mems3 you WILL need to replace the idle control valve for a mems1.9/2J with the 5 wires and add the wiring plug with the power feed for the idle valve as the Emerald can onhly operate the early idle control valve and not the mems3 unit.

[gotenks1321]

Mine won't run at all with the Emerald connected at the moment I'm wondering if some of my wiring is a bit 'suspect' hence getting another loom to modify and fit

Mine is a mems 2J so that should be ok. I can't think of any reason why the base map or Jon's maps would be so far out on my car, I didn't think there would be that much variation between them

[Matt Parker]

If you have made a conversion loom for the standard engine loom to plug into then to the Emerald then I would say you have a wire or 2 wrong then, double check pin locations and contiunity checks for breaks.

[gotenks1321]

I haven't yet made the loom but there were some crudely connected wires when I moved the pins over to the Emerald connector - that's why I am making a loom

Just out of curiosity, does your Emerald run hot at all? Mine seems to get rather warm to the touch after running for a little while.

You'll have a PM later too, questions from my dad about the conversion kit to MEMS3. Basically wanting to know everything that comes with it and what he needs to get seperately (if anything).

[Matt Parker]

I can'r recall it getting hot, it will be warm due to the size of the unit and whats inside anmd it running all the time. One on my ZS is hidden behind the mems ECU so can't check, one of Fizzbot is in the standard possition so it gets warm due to the engine bay of the F but nothing to be worried about.

If the ECU goes pop and doesn't work then I'd worry

[gotenks1321]

Rise thread, back from the dead

Finally finished making up my adapter loom and got a couple of maps from Jon Norris and Stu Dickens.

I've had a lot of help from Andycolm and Jon Norris over on .org and we identified a couple of bits that were wrong with the Emerald wiring instructions and sorted those but the car still won't run with any of the maps I have. I've tried it on both my dad's F and mine with exactly the same results, no idle, very rough running and very reluctant to rev. It doesn't seem to make sense that a map that runs perfectly on Jon's car won't run either of ours at all, same with Stu's and the base map from Emerald.

I've double and trippled checked all wiring with the Emerald instructions, the RAVE wiring diagram and the physical wiring on the engine loom and all seems fine in those respects.

Could the map be that different or am I looking at a dodgy ECU or something else wrong? It's back in it's box now as I've spent days trying to get this to work now

[Matt Parker]

Sounds like you either haven't got a communication from the either the map sensor, throttle potentiometer or the idle valve. Have you set up the throttle pot range. type of idle valve and checked to see what the map reading is on the live data?

Saying that if you are having faults with those items it will be a power supply issue for the sensors.

Is there anyone else car you know of that is running emerald that you can drop just your ecu onto to test it as you could have a faulty ecu as if you have gotten a wire wrong at some point of the conversion loom then it could have fried the ecu.

[gotenks1321]

Thanks for your reply Matt

From what I can remember: The IACV valve seems ok and I can operate it manually from the Live Adjustments screen and hear it moving both ways. I've setup the TPS and played around with the screw on the throttle body itself as suggested by Jon and reset the TPS each time so that the Emerald knows where it is etc, that also appears to show up ok in Live Adjustments and changes Engine State from revving to idling etc based on the settings in Idle Correction.

The MAP sensor I believe registers in the negative and I think I remember seeing it at either -0.30 bar or -0.50. Didn't pay much attention to it tbh, could that be the problem?

Unfortunately I don't know anyone local who's got one fitted otherwise that would have been ideal for testing.

I'm still worried about how hot it gets too, I managed to burn my hand the last time when unplugging it to plug the standard ECU back in

[Matt Parker]

The map shouldn't be reading negative pressure so if its positive 0.3 - 0.5 bar then that is ok if a little high but not enough to upset running of the engine

With you saying that you burnt your hand touching it there is deffinately a problem with the ecu as it should NOT get hot and any heat produced from it would not be warm enough to give an ant hot feet so I would say that you have a faulty ecu. Unless your mounting it near another object that will give off excessive heat.

[gotenks1321]

Well I guess that's that then, it can go back in it's box and stay there as I haven't got any more time or money to waste on it. Supposed to be brand new and never used but obviously that's not the case.

Thanks for all your help Matt, I owe you a pint or three at the next meet